A Quiet Pilgrimage: Honoring Pope Francis in Buenos Aires

Just one week after the passing of Pope Francis, my husband Josh and I found ourselves in the vibrant city of Buenos Aires. We were in town for just three nights for Josh to speak to a group of sales executives. While many around the world mourned the loss of this humble and impactful leader, I felt a quiet pull to learn more about his roots while in Argentina. Honestly, I didn't even know what his "real" name was until this trip!

Our destination: the San Juan de Basilica in the Flores neighborhood, the very church where a young man named Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the future Pope Francis, spent his childhood and first heard his calling to join the priesthood.

The only signs of memorialization around Buenos Aires I saw were these "Hasta siempre, compañero" posters.

In a city known for its passionate energy, our 2.5-hour walk to Flores on Argentina’s National Labor Day holiday felt like a deliberate slowing down, a mindful journey to a place of significant personal history. Many shops were closed and you could literally hear crickets during some portions of our walk. I bought an "Unlimited Speed Zero" energy drink to keep me awake amid the jet lag from our recent arrival from Los Angeles.

When we arrived at the basilica, I had imagined we'd experience a scene of overflowing tributes, a sea of flowers and mourners gathered in front of the basilica. As a little girl, I was in Paris just a few weeks after Princess Diana passed away so I witnessed the vast memorials of flowers, gifts and handwritten notes from admirers.

That wasn’t the case here for Pope Francis. Instead, we were met with a serene quietude. No rosaries for sale. No t-shirts with his adorable face on it. Just a lone man sleeping out front and a church bulletin board with upcoming activities, including a concert and a flyer advertising their children's ministry. It wasn't the grand spectacle I had anticipated, but perhaps a more fitting atmosphere to honor a man who consistently championed simplicity.

Simple posters of church activities adorned the stained glass windows and a bulletin board at the entrance.

Stepping inside the San Juan de Basilica was like stepping back in time. The hushed reverence of the space enveloped us. And then, there it was: the confessional where, in 1953, a young Jorge Bergoglio felt the profound stirring that would lead him to the priesthood. His own mother dreamed her son would become a doctor! No one could imagine how God would transform Jorge’s life to employ him as the first Latin American pope of all time. This unassuming wooden booth was now a focal point, filled with heartfelt cards, small tokens of love, and custom artwork depicting the beloved Pope. It was a powerful reminder of the deeply personal moments that shape a life of such global impact.

Even though I'm not a practicing Catholic, I'm a follower of Jesus...just like Jorge. So it was special to walk in his footsteps and spend time in a place that was so formative for him. Jorge stood for many of the things I stand for...welcoming the immigrant, living with integrity, serving with compassion and loving the unloved. Just like Jesus did.

Chef José Andrés once said, "Build longer tables instead of higher walls." I also love Jesus' invitation to his buddies (who had reaaaaally let him down during the Crucifixion) to "Come, have breakfast" following His Resurrection as written in the Gospel of John. I love to eat, so, naturally, I appreciate these expressions of what love looks like.

Pope Francis: A Son of Buenos Aires

To truly appreciate the significance of San Juan de Basilica, it's important to understand Pope Francis's deep connection to Buenos Aires. Born in the Flores neighborhood on December 17, 1936, Jorge Mario Bergoglio was one of five children of Italian immigrants. He attended public schools and even worked briefly as a chemical technician before entering the seminary. My own grandmother was the daughter of an Italian immigrant in the United States in the 1930s, so I love that she shared that powerful bonding experience with Jorge.

A very large door at the entrance of the basilica! Not a single flower or sign at the gate.

Jorge's early years in Buenos Aires were formative. He witnessed firsthand the struggles of the working class, a reality that would profoundly influence his ministry and his vision for a Church that actively serves the poor and marginalized. After his ordination in 1969, his entire career unfolded within Argentina until his election as Pope in 2013. And most notably, Jorge made history as the first Latin American pope in a long line of 266 of these guys. He served as Archbishop of Buenos Aires from 1998, becoming known for his humility, his commitment to justice, and his preference for taking public transportation and living in a simple apartment rather than the opulent archbishop's residence. His down-to-earth approach resonated deeply with the people of Buenos Aires, earning him the affectionate moniker "the slum bishop." Apparently he loved to tango, watch his favorite football club and drink traditional Argentine yerba mate.

A jolly memorial of "Papa Francisco" drinking his Yerba mate on a magazine cover in the Buenos Aires International Airport.

Treasures Within San Juan de Basilica

Beyond the deeply significant confessional, San Juan de Basilica holds other relics and elements that speak to its history and importance within the community:

* The Baptismal Font: It is believed that the future Pope Francis was baptized in the font that still stands within the basilica. This makes it another powerful touchstone to his early life and spiritual beginnings. I was actually baptized Catholic as an infant and I do cherish my family's Irish Catholic roots.

* The Altar: The main altar, often adorned with flowers, serves as the central point of worship, a place where young Jorge would have participated in countless masses.

* Statues and Icons: Like many Catholic churches, San Juan de Basilica houses various statues and icons of saints, each holding significance for the parishioners and offering further glimpses into the devotional life of the community that shaped the young Bergoglio.

* Historical Markers: You might find plaques or markers within the church that commemorate significant events in its history, perhaps even referencing Pope Francis's connection to the parish. I even stumbled upon some relics from Saint Faustina Kowalska from Poland who is best known for her visions of Jesus with the blue, red and white streaks of light. This inspired the treasured Catholic practice of the Divine Mercy.

The sacred confessional where Pope Francis heard his calling to join the priesthood. I actually purchased these pants ($10 USD) in a dollar store near the basilica, because I was concerned I wouldn't be allowed in with my short shorts!

Our visit to San Juan de Basilica wasn't what I expected. I didn't witness grand displays of mourning. I couldn't buy any souvenirs. But, I experienced a quiet connection to the early life of a man named Jorge who touched the hearts of billions. Not unlike the man who inspired him the most - Jesus Christ.

It was a simple pilgrimage to a simple church, a fitting tribute to a preacher who loved the poor and yearned for a church that embodied that same tender, merciful and hospitable love of Jesus. As we walked back through the bustling streets of Buenos Aires, we carried with us a sense of peace and a deeper understanding of the man who rose from these humble beginnings.

A humble snack of a gas station empanada after our special visit to the basilica. And left behind a delicious bar of chocolate for the man sleeping on the church steps.