I Ate 14 Empanadas in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires. The very name conjures images of passionate tango, the hunky hometown hero of Lionel Messi, vibrant street art, and, for the intrepid snacker, an endless array of tempting treats. On my recent adventure, I embarked on a decidedly delicious mission: to uncover the secrets held within the flaky crust of the humble empanada.

Now, you might think an empanada is just a simple stuffed sack of yum. And while that’s technically true, in Buenos Aires, it’s so much more. It’s a quick and satisfying bite on the go, a comforting staple at family gatherings, and a delicious representation of the region’s history. Dale!

Yes, I walked 15 miles around Buenos Aires in heels...and sampled 14 empanadas in the process.

#1. Spinach Empanada | Loma Linda Grill ($XXX))

Capitán Carlos León s/n Colonia Peñón de los Baños Alcaldía Venustiano Carranza, Ciudad de México 15620 México

My empanada pilgrimage began, perhaps unexpectedly, at the Mexico City International Airport in Benito Juarez en route to Buenos Aires. I was feeling peckish before our flight, so I ordered a spinach empanada from a fast service restaurant called Loma Linda. Even though it took about 10 minutes to prepare, it was definitely delicious with a flaky and crunchy crust. Probably the most gorgeous presentation you'll see on this list.

A crispy empanada espinaca (spinach) from Loma Linda in Aeropuerto Internacional de Ciudad de Mexico.

#2. Caprese Empanada | Shell Gas Station ($2 USD)

Avenida del Libertador, Cerrito 550, C1001 Buenos Aires

We arrived in Buenos Aires around 10PM and after 28 hours of travel. Even after mutliple airline meals, I was hungry. Josh and I popped into the Shell gas station near our hotel for some snacks. I was delighted to see empanadas in the counter. I ordered an empanada caprese (mozzarella and tomato), setting me back just a few bones. This was a solid mini meal – a testament to the fact that even the most unassuming locales can deliver a tasty empanada fix.

#3 Vegetable Empanada | Shell Gas Station ($2 USD)

Fray, Avenida Avellaneda, Fray Cayetano Rodríguez 2411, C1406 Buenos Aires

The next day, we visited Pope Francis’ childhood church, the Basilica of San José de Flores in the neighborhood where he was born and raised. Obviously, our long walk worked up my appetite. I went to yet another Shell gas station near San José and ordered an empanada verdura (vegetable). Another solid snack. Soft, not overly crunchy. Good crispy edges. But hit the spot.

It didn't have a beautiful crispy crusty like most of the others, but my gas station empanada was still tasty.

#4. Spinach Empanada | Sabores Express ($2.50 USD)

Florida 174, C1005AAD Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Like creamed spinach inside. Crispy. Perfect.

#5. Chicken Empanada  | Sabores Express ($2.50 USD)

Florida 174, C1005AAD Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

My quest continued at Sabores Express, a cheap local spot buzzing with lunchtime energy. Here, I indulged in a flavorful chicken empanada and yes, another spinach empanada. It was fascinating to compare the subtle differences – the seasoning of the filling, the flakiness of the dough, the overall sazón (flavor). Each empanada, though similar in concept, offered a unique taste of Buenos Aires. These were my favorites! I liked that the names were grilled into the sides.

#6. Vegetable Empanada | Mr. Cook ($1 USD)

Av. Córdoba 425, C1054AAD Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Then I got a spinach empanada from Mr. Cook following my spontaneous hair appointment with Don Rodolfo at Peluquería Rodolfo. My empanada was less than a dollar, which was a total bargain! But I have to say it was my least favorite. It was barely warm and not at all crispy. But hey, an empanada is an empanada! I still felt amazing walking down the street with my voluminous hairdo and empanada in hand.

A pretty mediocre empanada verdura (vegetable) from Mr. Cook.

#7. Chicken Empanada | El Sanjuanino ($2.50 USD)

Posadas 1515, C1112 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

A local guide recommended El San Juanino for the best empanadas in town and he certainly wasn't wrong!

#8. Spinach Empanada | El Sanjuanino ($2.50 USD)

Posadas 1515, C1112 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Crispy spinach perfection in a pocket from San Juanino. 10/10.

#9. Beef Empanada | Yacht Club Puerto Madero ($0 USD)

Victoria Ocampo 100, C1107 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Very delicious. Crispy. Good beef at the corporate event.

#10. Gluten-Free Beef Empanada | Goût ($5 USD)

Juncal 2124, C1125 ABB, Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Excellent crispy crust for a gluten-free little guy like this.

#11. Beef Empanada | Panal ($1.50 USD)

Ayacucho 1462, C1111 C1111AAN, Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Beautiful, but not as crispy as it looks. Heated up in the microwave. OK.

#12. Caprese Empanada | Big Pizza ($1 USD)

Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 1224, C1414DNZ Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires

Fairly empty pocket. More like a camping tent inside with a tiny mozzarella and tomato pillow.

#13. Onion & Cheese Empanada | Aerolíneas Argentinas Lounge ($0 USD)

RN A002 5 Terminal C, B1802 Ezeiza, Provincia de Buenos Aires

YUM. Like onion soup inside. Hot and nice.

#14. Beef Empanada | Aerolíneas Argentinas Lounge ($0 USD)

RN A002 5 Terminal C, B1802 Ezeiza, Provincia de Buenos Aires

Wow. Hot. Crispy. Delicious ground beef.

A Little Bite of History

Now, while I take a breather...let me share a bit of background. Where did this powerful pocket of flavor originate? The empanada's roots can be traced back to Spain, likely influenced by the Arabic fatay or Indian samosa. When the Spanish conquistadors arrived in South America, they brought with them this versatile pastry, which then adapted to local ingredients and culinary traditions. Honestly, what culture doesn't love shoving vegetables into a savory pouch of fried dough? It's certainly my favorite way to consume vegetables...

In Argentina, the empanada evolved into numerous regional variations, each boasting its own distinct filling and often a unique style of folding the repulgue (the crimped edge). From the savory meat-filled empanadas of Salta in the north to the seafood options found in coastal regions, the empanada tells a delicious story of Argentina's diverse geography and cultural influences.

Fun Empanada Facts to Chew On:

* The Repulgue is an Art Form: The way an empanada is crimped isn't just for sealing; it often indicates the filling inside! Skilled cocineros (cooks) can create intricate patterns that are both beautiful and informative.

* A Portable Feast: Empanadas are the ultimate grab-and-go food. Perfect for a quick lunch, a picnic in the park, or even a late-night snack. Josh's brother Matt lived in Argentina for over a year and says he used to eat 100+ empanadas per week!

* Endless Filling Possibilities: While classic fillings like beef (carne), chicken (pollo), and ham and cheese (jamón y queso) are popular, the possibilities are truly endless. From sweet corn (humita) to spicy chorizo, there's an empanada for every palate. Josh even got to enjoy a gluten-free empanada at a local restaurant called Goût.

* More Than Just Argentina: While I focused on my Buenos Aires adventure, empanadas are beloved throughout Latin America and beyond, with each country and region putting its own spin on this tasty treat.

Bring Buenos Aires to Your Kitchen: Simple Spinach Empanadas

Inspired by my delicious discoveries and my favorite flavor, I wanted to share a simple recipe for spinach empanadas so you can experience a little taste of Buenos Aires in your own kitchen.

Yields: 12 empanadas

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 20-25 minutes

Ingredients:

* 1 tablespoon olive oil

* 1 small onion, finely chopped

* 2 cloves garlic, minced

* 10 ounces frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

* 1/2 cup ricotta cheese

* 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

* 1 large egg, lightly beaten

* Salt and pepper to taste

* 1 package (about 12) refrigerated empanada discs (found in the refrigerated or frozen section of most supermarkets)

* 1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

Instructions:

* Sauté the Aromatics: Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the minced garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant.

* Combine the Filling: Add the squeezed spinach to the skillet and cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, to remove any excess moisture. Remove from heat and transfer to a mixing bowl.

* Mix the Cheeses and Egg: Stir in the ricotta cheese, Parmesan cheese, and the lightly beaten egg into the spinach mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

* Assemble the Empanadas: Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

* Remove the empanada discs from the packaging. Place a spoonful of the spinach filling in the center of each disc.

* Fold the dough over the filling to create a half-moon shape. Press the edges together to seal, and then crimp the edges with a fork to create a decorative repulgue.

* Egg Wash and Bake: Brush the tops of the empanadas with the beaten egg wash.

* Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown and puffed.

* Enjoy! Let the empanadas cool slightly before serving. They're delicious warm or at room temperature.

My empanada adventure in Buenos Aires was a delicious reminder that sometimes the simplest and most inexpensive foods hold the richest stories and flavors. It was fun to sample the beef empanadas since I haven't had beef in 7+ YEARS!!!

So, the next time you find yourself in this vibrant city, be sure to embark on your own empanada expedition. Your taste buds will thank you! And until then, I hope this recipe brings a little piece of Buenos Aires to your own kitchen.

Ciao!